In this article
The first hours: safety, photos, insurer
- Do not touch anything electrical while standing in water, not even the main switch. If the water reaches outlets, a baseboard heater or the panel, have the power cut by an electrician or by Hydro-Québec.
- Photograph everything before you move anything: the water line on the walls, the furniture, the boxes, the spot where the water seems to come from.
- Call your insurer and write down the claim number. Ask what is covered and whether they send an emergency firm.
- Keep the evidence: do not throw out damaged belongings before the adjuster has seen them, or photograph them with a label.
Who dries it out and who rebuilds
These are two different trades. Pumping, drying and decontamination go to specialized firms, often sent by the insurer. They set up dehumidifiers and measure the moisture in the walls until they are dry. The general contractor then takes over to rebuild after the loss: walls, insulation, floors, plumbing and finishing.
Timing matters. Mould can appear within 24 to 48 hours on wet drywall and insulation. The sooner drying starts, the fewer materials have to be thrown out.
What to remove, and what you can keep
Porous materials that soaked do not dry all the way through. They are removed up to a sound height, often 30 to 60 cm (12 to 24 in.) above the line left by the water.
| Material | After water damage |
|---|---|
| Drywall and batt insulation | Removed above the water line |
| Carpet and underpad | Thrown out |
| Laminate floating floor | Almost always replaced: the board swells |
| Luxury vinyl and ceramic | Often salvageable, check underneath |
| Wood studs | Kept if they dry and stay sound |
| Concrete (slab and walls) | Kept; look for cracks once dry |
Finding what let the water in
Refinishing a basement without fixing the cause means paying twice. Once the walls are open, we look for where the water came from. The most common causes in West Island homes:
- Sewer backup: water comes up through the floor drain during a heavy storm. The fix is a backwater valve, kept maintained.
- Sump pump that failed or is undersized, with no alarm or battery backup.
- Crack in the foundation that lets groundwater in.
- Grading that slopes toward the house, or gutters that empty at the foot of the wall.
- Weeping tile clogged around the foundation.
Many insurers require a backwater valve to cover sewer backup, and several cities make it mandatory. Have it checked before anything is closed up.
Rebuilding a basement that tolerates moisture
A basement stays damper than the rest of the house. The rebuild is a chance to choose forgiving materials:
- Rigid insulation glued to the concrete, which does not hold water
- Walls framed slightly away from the foundation
- Moisture-resistant drywall at the bottom of the walls
- Vinyl or ceramic flooring rather than laminate
- Electrical outlets high enough to escape a minor flood
If the basement was living space, the rebuild often requires a permit, especially if plumbing moves or a bedroom is redone. The technical details of basement finishing are on our dedicated page.
Preparing the claim with the contractor
The insurer compares the rebuild price against its own schedule. The more detailed the quote, the simpler the comparison. Ask the contractor for:
- A list of the damage room by room, with photos
- A price for each type of work rather than one lump sum
- Separate lines for anything unrelated to the loss (a larger window, for example)
- A written note for each piece of hidden damage found during the work
Check your policy for the endorsements that apply: sewer backup, surface water and groundwater are not covered by default, and each has its own limit.